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  1. #1

    taking apart and cleaning old mixer

    I don't know if you all have herd of the Yamaha m2500, but I"m taking this mixer home from my church. It's really really old and dirty, most of the channels work, but some don't. The strange thing is, the channels that do not work seam to be randum from day to day. How can I clean this mixer up and get it working correctly again? Any tips? Note I am blind, so please be vary detailed.
    Regards,
    Ivan Fegundez. Recording Technician, live sound technician, and mastering technician.

  2. #2
    I can't see it in much detail in any information or picture that I can find, but it appears that the faders are modular in this board? Does that seem to be the case? If so, they may just need to all be reseated.
    Eric Adler (tonsofpcs)
    http://www.videoproductionsupport.com/ Chat at: http://tinyurl.com/vpschat
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  3. #3
    Senior Member SC358's Avatar
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    Hi Ivan,
    If the problem could be resolved by just reseating the slider module, then I suggest to also do the following:
    1- If the module uses pin contacts it would be easier and quicker to spray the male pins and the female sockets. Allow time for the liquid to evaporate and dry.
    2- If the module uses edge board contacts then use a cleaner/degreaser with lint-free texwipes to wipe the metal contacts on the board but spray the female connector and allow to dry.

    There are numerous cleaning/degreaser liquid sprays you can use. If you can get your hands on something called Blue Shower, it's one of the best to use but do be very careful handling it because it can be an irritant and is toxic.

    Also as an alternative, I suggest using 98-99% alcohol and nothing less (however I don't think there is a spray version unless you just buy a small spray bottle). You can use the texwipes with both cleaners. In either case this stuff evaporates pretty fast, so give some time for these cleaners to dry up before reinserting the module.

    If you need me to elaborate on anything just let me know.


    Just a friendly warning - you can't mix this alcohol with orange juice, you'll go blind... Ooopps, sorry - too late. Just don't do it.


    SC358
    Relationships are based on compromises - behavior accepted is behavior repeated.

  4. #4
    Ok, heres another question. How would I go about takeing the thing apart? Also, what' if it's not the fader? what if it's a swich or gain pot?
    Regards,
    Ivan Fegundez. Recording Technician, live sound technician, and mastering technician.

  5. #5
    Senior Member SC358's Avatar
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    Quote
    Quote: ivan
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    Ok, heres another question. How would I go about takeing the thing apart?
    As you face the board, where are the seams? If sections are modular usually there are 2 or more screws that hold them (i.e. fader or electronic section). Once the screws are removed you may need a small flat screwdriver to wedge on the sides and use as leverage to remove that section.
    Quote
    Quote: ivan
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    Also, what' if it's not the fader? what if it's a swich or gain pot?
    Actually, the fader or slider is a potentiometer or pot. The knob that slides up/down is attached to a flat thin spiral type metal inside the board. One end of that metal piece is attached to the shaft of a pot. Since the mechanics causes the metal strip to turn, it turns the pot one way or the other.

    Some of the cleaning liquids that come in a spray can may have a small plastic hollow tube (like a straw) that can be attached to the spray nozzle and provides a pin-pointed stream. Without using this, you'll lose more liquid overall.

    Some potentiometers that are encased in plastic might have 4 small screws. If it does, remove the screws to open the back and expose the internal parts. Spray the inside of the pot briefly and exercise the pot by turning it back and forth from one end to the other end several times to remove oxidation. Once the cleaner has evaporated, screw the cover back on. If it is totally sealed then you'll have to inject the cleaning solution using the plastic straw between the shaft and case, with the hopes that enough solution will get in - exercise the pot as described previously.

    If it is a switch, don't open it but spray anywhere there is an opening that the solution can get in. Then exercise the switch several times and allow any excess solution to evaporate.

    Ivan, if you have to go down this road to change a pot or switch, this will most likely require soldering. The problem is that I'm not capable of teaching a blind person how to desolder and solder which requires sight. I don't know of anyone who is sightless with the ability to solder. If there is, I'd like to know their technique myself. But know this also, I'm not saying that you cannot do it - I don't know what the technique is for your situation.
    SC358
    Relationships are based on compromises - behavior accepted is behavior repeated.

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